Too Old for Ice Cream

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“Never too old for ice cream! Never!” The thought hit me as I leaned against the red brick wall, outside the Sweet Auburn Curb Market, cone in hand; enjoying a waffle cone filled with bourbon burnt sugar ice cream.  How could I ask for a better setting? A warm spring day, the charm of an urban market yet I felt oddly self-conscious as if I had worn a pair of jeans to the beach.  A drop of melted cream falls on my shoe. There’s a small hole, which I discover by carefully turning the cone in my hand. This is a sign to lick faster, stop thinking, and start eating. “I’m so outta practice” I think to myself.  “A cup would have been smarter, but it’s more fun trying to eat it all before the whole thing melts.” To my left, a t-shirt vendor has two folding tables filled with bric-a-brac, a mélange of t-shirts and other goods on display flea market style. A few words drift my way – he’s chatting with two ladies – they all seem to know each other.

My ice cream cone has finally taken on the familiar, smooth conical shape and the sight brings a smile to my face. “I’m too old for ice cream”, why does it nag me so? “Look around… who cares!”  Cars come in and out of the parking lot as people come to the market while others leave with their purchases. “Too old to be eating ice cream alone,” A wry smile sneaks across my face, and at that moment something clicks.  My self-conscious thoughts spurred by proximity to a group of girls in their early twenties. Two were comfortably seated on the concrete floor, backs against the wall, legs folded Indian style while the other two stood in a semi-circle.  Their smooth skin, long flowing hair, slippers and colorful tank tops had the easy demeanor of college girls reveling in a warm spring day. Georgia State University is a few blocks away from the Auburn Curb Market, an easy walk for students with time to kill between classes. They looked like they were about to have lunch, probably outside waiting for friends to show up.

There’s a satisfying crunch from the last of the sweet wafer cone and I savor the moment as their idle chatter about boyfriends and fashion continues on and on.  Suddenly the question of age comes up and their conversation rapidly dissolves into spurts and starts punctuated by coy silence. “I’m too old to be listening to this”, each girl looks around while waiting for the other to divulge their age. The oldest was twenty-four and the youngest – nineteen, which brought my own age into sharp perspective. I should be counting calories, worrying about carbohydrates and lack of exercise. I have a few gray hairs now and I would never sit on the floor even in a pair of old pants.  I tune into NPR radio on my way to work and I drink way too much coffee. But that’s my life and I’m pretty ok with it. So I had two scoops of ice cream today and enjoyed every last drop. It’s time to go home and I take out the keys to my car. I think about my four young friends. I hope that after lunch, on their way out, they’ll stop by High Road ice cream, choose a flavor, and ask for it in a cone like I did. It will be cold, sweet, creamy, guilt free and deeply satisfying like it’s supposed to be, because you’re never, ever, too old for ice cream.

 

 

 

Lima Beans, Eggplant, Cucumber, A Chef’s Wishful Wait for Spring

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“The unfortunate gardener loves gardening but isn’t very good at it.” Jomo MorrisIMG_6188

IMG_3054 That description fits me perfectly. The twelve or so scrawny hibiscus planted in a row along the edge of my lawn would agree. In my defense, I dug the hole deep and lubricated each one with copious amounts of manure before sticking the young saplings into their final resting place. Like a doting father, each hibiscus plant got an early morning shower with the water hose. IMG_6183I never shirked my duty and would talk to them like children as I stooped low to peer at the leaves for bugs and run my fingers along the stems to check for other plant maladies. They were doomed from the start. Poor soil conditions and a malicious Jamaican sun, transformed my pet project into a forlorn row of spindly kindle wood. The unfortunate gardener had struck again.

IMG_6176My luck with gardening hasn’t always been a downhill struggle; a wee sapling of an avocado tree clung to life and seems to enjoy the spot I picked for it. The ginger lilies by the side of my house are in constant bloom especially since I’ve grown handy with my favorite pruning tool – a machete. I have three beautiful frangipani trees, two Julie mango trees and an unruly bed IMG_6175of Mexican petunias that are pretty to look at but apt to spread if not carefully watched. My bougainvillea hedges are a riot of color during the summer, not to mention the pink oleanders that lead up my driveway. It’s been years since I’ve left my garden home in Jamaica for the United States and I’ll admit, I’ve had a good run; but the memory of my ill-fated hibiscus plants still makes my IMG_6161IMG_6170green thumb cringe.

Maybe this year I’ll finally be able to make things right. Each spring, the cooks in my kitchen, volunteer time and energy to fill four large concrete planters on the fifth floor terrace with herbs, flowers and vegetables. Each concrete planter is four feet high and eight feet square with a tent- like covering for shade. The state of IMG_6179Georgia, experiences all four seasons which is perfectly fine because I needed time to assuage my own fears. Maybe I was still haunted by the ghosts of hibiscus past? Am I superstitious? I was determined to prove myself wrong. So as Old Man Winter released his icy grip on the earth, I thawed enough courage to join the team in charge of this year’s chef garden.

IMG_6172Chef said “we should make sure that we did some research on what plants were best for our small garden.”

He said “we should think about the best frost tender vegetables and herbs because whatever we chose to plant in the next few weeks must be able to withstand sudden temperature changes. IMG_6167According to the climate chart, Atlanta is in zone 7b which means that there is a potential for cold snaps well up into the end of April.”

I stood with the other cooks in a semi-circle around him, hands respectfully clasped behind us, he went on to explain that “the best part of planting a garden is the IMG_6168learning process involved. It requires commitment and a willingness to get your hands dirty.” 

It was obvious that he was on a roll and you could see his enthusiasm for the subject building, “you will sweat, being outside in the July sun can be hot work, but sweat builds character and you’ll learn IMG_6162first-hand how plants grow. Imagine being able to put seeds in the earth and watch them grow!”

His excitement was infectious and if at the end of his speech if he had said charge! Every cook would have run out the door yelling and screaming, ready to dig into the earth with their bare hands.

IMG_6164It was a good meeting and as we went to finish prep for dinner service in an animated mood. Even as tickets came in and plates flew out the kitchen; it was all we could talk about. Now, the gardener in me would have loved to plant scotch bonnet peppers, callaloo, gungo peas, pineapple and sugar cane but I’m a long way from Jamaica. Instead I’ve chosen to apply my IMG_6159green thumb to lima beans, eggplant, peppers, tomato and cucumbers. I can already imagine myself cooking with all the fresh basil, thyme, oregano, sage and mint just picked from the garden. I may be pushing my luck but a planter filled with various types of plump lettuce would be ideal. I’m excited by all the possibilities. In the next few weeks, as I head to the nursery to buy compost and select plant seedlings, I’ll be thinking about warm spring breezes and a privileged cook working in a small urban garden, planting dreams, wishes and memories.

The Shed at Glenwood

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IMG_5998Most people are pretty good at associating words with images. Most people associate the color yellow with the sun or immediately think of candy when chocolate is mentioned. Words can construe positive or negative connotations in our psyche. Often we use words to identify ourselves and in so doing create a series of expectations from which people can judge us. I’m a chef, this is the start of my professional identify and it should lead you to believe that, I’m knowledgeable about food, I can cook and my uniform is a white jacket with checkered pants.  When one hears the word shed or thinks of a structure described as a shed it brings to mind images of small building in the backyard used for storing tools or as a workshop.IMG_6002

Imagine my surprise when I decided to have dinner at The Shed at Glenwood in East Atlanta. The building is unassuming in décor and it’s obvious this building was a part of a much larger architectural development of apartment buildings and stores so common in urban neighborhoods.  The façade was typical red brick on the outside with large glass windows on the left side of the building. There is no large sign on the building and I had to literally walk right up to the door to make sure I was in the right place. Inside, the décor was contemporary with stainless steel, recessed lights and an open floor plan. The space was just the right size for a neighborhood restaurant, small enough to still be intimate, yet with enough space to not be claustrophobic.IMG_6001I got there at 6pm which is the usual start for dinner service and was surprised to find people eating at several tables. The host was on the phone confirming a reservation, once finished; he greeted me cordially asking if I had a reservation. I explained to him that I was in the neighborhood and decided to stop for dinner at which point he explained that they were solidly booked for the night. He offered seating at the bar, which in my opinion can be better than sitting at a table. Service is much quicker at the bar especially in busy restaurants. As I sat and looked at the menu, I realized that I would never cook or serve food of this caliber in a shed. The name “The Shed” is an oxymoron, there’s nothing rustic, utilitarian or simple about the food served here. Simple is left at the door, where it stayed for the next few hours while I pleasurably ate and drank my way through a series of small plates and main courses. IMG_6005

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To start, I ordered the Smoked Trout Risotto Balls with Lemon Aioli, Lamb Short Rib with fennel slaw, date chutney and yogurt, Chicken liver pate with sweet potato butter and brioche.  Each plate, no more than three to four bites demonstrated the chef’s attention to detail and his use of color and garnish to entice the eye. The risotto balls were tasty smeared in the lemon aioli, but the flavor of the smoked trout was barely discernible, enjoyable but not memorable. The lamb short ribs were tender and flavorful, the fennel slaw and yogurt offset the fatty richness of the short rib, thoroughly enjoyed this.  I enjoyed the chicken pate as well, and had to request another plate of brioche to make sure I could smear on every last bit of it. If you’ve never had chicken liver pate before, The Shed is a good venue for an initiation. IMG_6006The entrees ordered were Grilled New York strip (medium), with glazed pearl onions, potato croquette, and blue cheese with the House 1A Sauce. Also Potato Crusted Flounder with salt cod potato, artichoke chips and Meyer lemon Aioli.Once again it was evident that the chef has a fine dining background, each plate was beautiful to look at. The Flounder was ok, safe. There were no surprises in this dish and I’m sure it is a safe bet for the finicky eater.  The New York Strip was served in medallions, neatly stacked. It was tender, coupled with the potato croquette that was nice and crispy on the outside with creamy smooth center. The glazed onions were sweet and tangy. Definitely the standout dish of the two. To drink I had a local draught called Red Hare Long Day Lager which is similar in taste to Stella Artois but with a slightly stronger note of bitterness from the hops.IMG_6012IMG_6009IMG_6000

By the end too full for dessert, I opted to leave that for another visit. The Shed at Glenwood connotes many images but the best is that of good food, affordably priced in a casual setting.

Recipes to Feed the Wolf – Fettuccine Alfredo with Shrimp, Broccoli and lots of Garlic

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The wolf is gray

The wolf is hunger

The wolf is natural

Feed the wolf!

 IMG_5638 copyThe question of the wolf has been on my mind for quite some time. I’ve been struggling with explaining what the concept of the wolf means to a cook. Obviously, it’s not a literal description of an animal with hair, fur, claws and teeth. In my mind, the wolf is figurative; he resides in a deeper, darker place. I like to think of the wolf as hunger. Our desire to eat and feed lets the wolf loose; it hunts and does what it will. In pursuit IMG_5642of food we’re all reduced to our basest instincts. Cooks deal with this transformation every day; in essence we are professionally trained to feed the hungry. We feed the wolves. In exposing this truth, it bears well to remember that the wolf resides in all of us. Even cooks succumb to the gut wrenching pangs of hunger. We cook for the hungry and in turn are fed. IMG_5648

Wolves are particular creatures and hard to please. They roam far and wide in search of a meal and there’s no guarantee where a wolf may choose to feed from one day to the next. In fact it’s this discerning palate that keeps people like myself employed. My own wolf, likes to roam the tiny kitchen in my apartment. He particularly likes to IMG_5640rummage through the pantry, sometimes opening one door and another, touching a can here, looking at a jar there. Sometimes I’ll come home late at night and find the wolf staring into the refrigerator. The light casts shadows around me and I feel his presence in the shadows. I’m quiet in this moment, somehow caught in the reverie of longing. His eyes look up and meet mine, a plaintive whine and I know the wolf IMG_5650is hungry.

In moments such as this, when haste is expedient, cook it fast and serve it hot. Here’s a recipe that I’ve used many times to keep the wolf sated and content. It starts with bringing:

2 qts of water

1 tsp saltIMG_5658

8 ozs fettuccine pasta

1 head of fresh broccoli cut into small florets (about 2 cups)

1)      Bring the water to a boil. Wait a minute before adding the pasta, I like to blanch my broccoli first. It saves a step and reduces the amount of time and pots to clean.

2)      Cook the broccoli in boiling water for about two minutes then use a slotted spoon to chill the broccoli in a bowl with water and ice cubes.

3)      Drain the broccoli and set aside.

4)      Time for the fettuccine pasta, add 2 tsp. of vegetable oil to the boiling water.  Add the Fettuccine and stir every 2 to 3 minutes to keep them from sticking. It should take about 11-12 minutes to cook al dente.

There was nothing to do but cook the shrimp. “It would have to do,” I said. “It would have to do.”

 ½ lb. of shrimp (peeled and deveined)

 Mince 5 cloves of garlic

Fresh basil (8 -10 leaves) julienne

3 tbsp. of vegetable oil

1 lemon

Pinch of salt and black pepper

16 oz. of heavy cream

¾ cup of parmesan cheese

 5)      Marinate the shrimp with the garlic, oil, salt and pepper and a small amount of basil. Keep most of the basil to add at the end just before serving.

6)      In a small saucepan heat the heavy cream and reduce by half. This is important the cream should be reduced until thick and coats the back of a spoon. Whisk in ½ cup of parmesan cheese and stir until cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth. Remember parmesan cheese is salty so be careful with seasoning.

7)      Drain the shrimp thoroughly, this is important. Make sure to get a large sauté pan extremely hot and add the marinated shrimp. Stir quickly for a minute before adding the cheese sauce.

8)      Add the broccoli and stir well

9)      Add the cooked fettuccine pasta and the rest of the fresh basil; stir to coat the pasta in sauce.

10)  Sprinkle the rest of parmesan cheese on each portion before serving.IMG_5663

And if you feel as I do, howl at the moon.

Recipes to feed the Wolf – French Onion Soup

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french onion soup“Hurry, the wolves at the door, they gather round the table. “ Jomo Morris

A Cherokee Legend

An old Cherokee is teaching his grandson about life. “A fight is going on inside me,” he said to the boy. “It is a terrible fight and it is between two wolves. One is evil – he is anger, envy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, self-pity, guilt, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, superiority, and ego.” He continued, “The other is good – he is joy, peace, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, benevolence, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion, and faith. The same fight is going on inside you – and inside every other person, too.” The grandson thought about it for a minute and then asked his grandfather, “Which wolf will win?” The old Cherokee simply replied, “The one you feed.”

The purpose of every cook is to feed the hungry; and more importantly, the wolf we become, because of that hunger.  It’s raining outside and from the look of things today is a good day to spend indoors. Rainy days are best spent in an old t-shirt, fuzzy socks and comfortable pajamas. A rainy day is best for curling up on the sofa. There’s a book you’ve wanted to read for some time. The pitter patter of raindrops falling on the roof is soothing in its constant repetition. It also hungers for something special, a treat for you and yours, something warm, slow simmered and deeply satisfying. The wolf in you demands it and you should consent by spending time in the kitchen making French Onion soup. It’s a classic preparation that requires time and a bit of patience especially in the early stages. French Onion soup has four main components – deeply caramelized Spanish onions, a rich broth, toasted croutons and a thick covering of graitinéed gruyere and parmesan cheese.  A well-made French Onion soup is delicious because you took the time to be patient. It is an experience best enjoyed in the warmth of your home, safely ensconced from the cold and wet. Enjoy your French Onion soup and the wolf within will be happier for it.

French Onion Soup

Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking and Smitten Kitchen

3 thinly sliced yellow onions

3 tbsp. butter

1 tbsp.  Olive oil

1 tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. granulated sugar

3 tsp. minced garlic

4 cups beef stock

Sprig of thyme

½ cup sherry

Freshly ground black pepper

To finish: [Gratinée]

1 cup grated Gruyere with a ¼ cup parmesan or a mixture of Swiss and Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon butter, melted

12 ea.  1-inch thick rounds French bread, toasted until hard

  1. Melt the butter and oil together in the bottom of a Dutch oven over low heat. Add the onions, toss to coat them in oil and cover the pot. Let them slowly steep for 15 minutes.
  2. After 15 minutes, uncover the pot, raise the heat slightly and stir in the salt and sugar. Cook onions, stirring frequently, for 30 to 40 minutes until they have turned an even, deep golden brown. Don’t skimp on this step, as it will build the complex and intense flavor base that will carry the rest of the soup.
  3. After the onions are fully caramelized, add the minced garlic and let cook for three minutes. Add the sherry in full, and then add the beef stock, a little at a time, stirring between additions. Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Add the thyme sprig and bring to a simmer and simmer partially covered for 30 to 40 more minutes, skimming if needed. Correct seasonings if needed and remove the thyme sprig but go easy on the salt as the cheese will add a bit more saltiness.
  4. Set oven to broil. Arrange 4 ovenproof soup bowls or crocks on a baking sheet. To each bowl, add a tablespoon of grated cheese. Stir to combine. Dab your croutons with a tiny bit of butter and float a few on top of your soup bowls, attempting to cover it. Mound ¼ cup grated cheese on top of it. Finish for a minute or two under the broiler to brown the top lightly. Serve immediately.

A Chocolate Purist

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“The true measure of passion is the ability to follow your dreams without encouragement from anyone else.” Jomo Morris

From cocoa bean to chocolate bar, making this sweet confection requires diligence and a fair amount of technical expertise. From start to finish it takes three days, which is a short wait for a process that has taken centuries to make its way from the jungles of South America to the imperial courts of European aristocracy and ultimately into the hands of artisans, who have made chocolate the decadent treat we know and love today. My executive chef likes to make chocolate. Call it a passion, he’s spent years perfecting his recipe and the entire kitchen knows chef is making another batch of chocolate when the scent of roasting cocoa beans permeates the air. It’s a familiar smell, a kind of food scent perfume that lingers briefly for the thirty or so minutes it takes to roast the cocoa beans.The aroma is also a sign of more important things happening to the bean:Chemical reactions occur when cocoa beans are roasted and proper roasting removes moisture which in turn intensifies and concentrates the chocolate flavor. Roasting helps separate the outer husk from the inner bean and makes cracking and winnowing easier.It sterilizes the cocoa bean.  Fresh cocoa beans are left out in the open to ferment to increase flavor, just like coffee beans. This prolonged exposure to the elements also increases the risk of bacteria, fungi or mold being present on the bean.

The beans then go through a Crankandstein cocoa mill that breaks the beans into pieces. It’s a hand mill which adds a bit of integrity through perspiration to the artisanal process. The broken bits are then “winnowed” with a hair dryer which blows away the flaky outer shell and leaves the inner kernel or cocoa nib. Cocoa flakes cover the wall, the sink, and swirl up and around his chef jacket as he works the hair dryer back and forth intent on the task of separating the nibs.

The cocoa nibs are then ground until they liquefy to produce a sludge called chocolate liquor. From here it goes into a machine called a “melanger” which has a granite basin with two opposing granite rollers. Think of a turn of the century mill with a huge granite stone to crush the grain and you pretty much have an idea of what this piece of equipment looks like. Chocolate liquor is grainy in texture and bitter in taste. It’s at this stage that sweeteners and additives like cocoa butter are added to manipulate the characteristics of the finished product.  This bar is 70% chocolate, which means that it retains a high level of antioxidant flavonoids which are actually good for you. The melanger reduces the particle sizes of both cocoa solids, fats and sugar crystals in chocolate, through heat and friction. Eighteen hours of frictional heat from granite rubbing against granite refines the chocolate and keeps it liquid in a process called conching.  The next step is tempering.  Chocolate can be tempered by hand with the aid of a chocolate thermometer and a little knowledge but a tempering machine removes the chance of error from this step. Tempering chocolate is a temperature sensitive process that produces certain characteristics in finished chocolate.The process of heating, cooling, stirring and reheating chocolate to specific temperatures ensure that the chocolate crystallizes evenly. If chocolate is not tempered correctly the color will be dull and have ugly white streaks on the surface.

This process also raises the melting point of chocolate so it doesn’t melt in your hand.

  1. Properly tempered chocolate has a polished, shiny appearance and a crisp, clean snap when you break it.

A large syringe works well to draw the warm chocolate from the machine and fill the molds, and then the chocolate is left to set.  The day is done but chef is still in his office with a stack of chocolate filled plastic molds on his desk. He unmolds each bar then wraps each one in protective tin foil and finishes with a labeled paper wrapper. It’s sold to guests who stay at the hotel, but more important is the sense of satisfaction chef derives from crafting a product with his own hands. He’s extremely proud of his work and it comes out in the quality of the chocolate bar. His animated description of the process and his decision to invest time and money into transforming the humble cocoa bean speaks to his passion for local and artisanal foods that we can all connect to. There’s a story in his chocolate, a connection between the chef, the beans and the person who eats his chocolate bars. It’s a slow food idea that supports the movement to preserve traditional and regional cuisine and highlight the parallels between the foods we plant and what we eat.

 

 

Pass the Roti – A Look at Unleavened Bread in History

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The Food Pathways of Grain

Archaeologists have uncovered primitive artifacts that chart the evolution of man’s gradual shift from nomadic hunter/ gatherer to the formation of small settlements where animals were domesticated and people practiced sedentary farming. Thousands of years ago, agriculture was not the principal mode of support for human societies; but those who learned to grow crops survived and increased. In turn, these techniques of production were passed on to other peoples. The cultivation of wheat and barley spread throughout the Middle East and into India. These crops also spread northward to Europe, where oats and rye were added later. From Egypt, the cultivation of grain crops, spread to peoples across Africa and onwards across the vast Sahara desert.

Unleavened bread has been a staple in the human diet for millennia

The earliest recorded types of unleavened bread were made from grains like corn, wheat and barley which were ground with stones and turned into paste by adding water. This paste was cooked on a flat stone or a piece of hardened clay placed in or near the fireside.  It is easy to draw a parallel between the unleavened breads of our ancestors and the flat breads we enjoy today. Matzo, Pita, Naan, Tortillas, Roti, Lavash are all breads that feature prominently in regional cuisines worldwide. Matzo and Pita are from the Middle East, Naan and Roti are Indian, Tortillas are a Mexican staple and Lavash is a mainstay in Eastern Europe.   Unleavened bread reflects how regional cuisines have been affected by culture, religion, geography, climate, and cookware.  

The climate and geography of Latin America is perfect for corn

Corn also known as maize is a staple of that region and the main ingredient in tortillas. The Aztecs were probably the first people to grow maize as an agricultural crop. Maize made up a large part of their diet and was eaten straight off the cob or ground into cornmeal to make dough called masa. The Spaniards led by Hernán Cortés, were the first Europeans to see corn growing in The New World. They arrived in what is now Mexico and found the Aztecs using corn to make flat bread.

Matzo bread is an important part of the Jewish Passover

Matzo bread is important for its symbolism and history. Passover commemorates the exodus of the Jewish people from the pharaoh in Egypt.  Moses led the Israelites out of Egypt in such haste, they could not wait for their bread dough to rise; the bread, when baked, was flat. Eating Matzo symbolizes redemption and freedom, it’s a “poor man’s bread,” that reminds us to be humble, and not forget what life was like in servitude. Matzo bread looks like an oversized cracker and is a must for the aptly named Matzo ball soup.

The Tandoor Oven, Naan & Roti, hallmarks of Indian cuisine

The rudimentary design of the Indian tandoor oven has not changed much. The tandoor is essentially a large cylindrical clay pot with a heat source from underneath capable of temperatures as high as 900F. Naan bread one of the most popular Indian flatbreads is baked in a Tandoor oven. Indian cuisine is predominantly vegetarian due to the Hindu and Muslim beliefs that make up a large percentage of the population. Flatbreads replace the need for utensils. They accompany the wide variety of stews, legumes, and vegetarian fillings popular in Indian cooking. As in most Middle Eastern and African culture where food is eaten with the hand, unleavened breads are a common accompaniment with most meals and are used to pick food up in bite sized portions.

In 1845 the first wave of Indians came to Jamaica to work as indentured servants

Along with their farm tools and cooking utensils they introduced Jamaicans to curry and callaloo. They also brought the recipe for making the unleavened bread roti and their love of using curry to cook goat. As with all new immigrants they were met with resistance at first but over time aspects of Indian culture and identity began to assimilate itself into their new homeland. Curry goat, roti, callaloo, mango chutney, are but a few of the additions that have helped to add diversity and depth to Jamaican cuisine.

To make Roti, you need a cast iron skillet

There are no factories that produce roti on a production line. Roti is one of the few unleavened breads that is still handmade in Jamaica.  It is a time honored technique that is deliciously simple to make. Curry goat and roti is a must at any party and can be made a day ahead if necessary. Whenever roti is on the menu for a party, Jamaicans try to find someone of Indian descent to add that authentic touch to roti. Making roti means a kitchen filled with women who manage to effortlessly make hundreds of identical circular disks amidst the laughter and chatter of a social gathering. Children come and go, a dog barks in the distance as the rhythmic sound of rolling pins sends puffs of flour swirling in the air. There is a slight sizzle as a woman expertly picks up a cooked roti from the hot skillet and places another in place. There are no wasted motions and in a few hours a stack of cooked roti sits in a large bowl covered by a dish towel.  The party is tomorrow, but the celebration has already begun, tonight I’ll be having curry chicken, rice & peas and roti for dinner.

A Recipe for Roti

2 cups all-purpose flour

½ tsp. salt

1 tbsp. baking powder

¾ cup water

Vegetable oil to lightly coat the cast iron skillet

Flour for dusting

Method

Carefully sift the flour into a bowl. Add the salt. Pour in the water and mix to form soft dough. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. On a floured surface, divide the dough into 6 equal round balls. Sprinkle a work surface liberally with flour and roll each portion out into a thin circle. Have a hot cast-iron griddle ready on a medium flame and slap the rolled circle on to the griddle. Cook lightly for 10 seconds or until one side browns and then flip the roti and cook the other side. Serve hot or let cool and store in a covered container.

Walking Through the Revolving Door Scott Left

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“Few things are more beautiful to me than a bunch of thuggish, heavily tattooed line cooks moving around each other like ballerinas on a busy Saturday night. Seeing two guys who’d just as soon cut each other’s throats in their off hours moving in unison with grace and ease can be as uplifting as any chemical stimulant or organized religion.” ― Anthony Bourdain

It’s hard to see a good cook leave. It’s hard to see someone with the spark, roll up their knife kit and quit. People come to the life of professional cooking for many different reasons, most will say it’s because they love being around food. They love the creative process that stems from the craft of cooking; love the adrenaline rush, enjoy the sense of camaraderie, hate the idea of working a 9 to 5 job. Others credit their interest in professional cooking to the rise in prominence of celebrity chefs and the plethora of culinary schools that glamorize the kitchen, capitalizing on the larger than life rock star personas splashed across our television screens. Culinary schools have been signing up students in droves with deceptive promises that sugar coat the harsh reality of low wages and long hours endured by line cooks.

The strain on both mind and body is incredible. The craft can be taught, but cooks, especially good cooks, need to possess a burning ambition, talent, passion and sense of timing that borders on near ruthlessness to progress upwards through a kitchen’s hierarchy. It’s a fight to the top that starts from day one as an intern and never lets up until you either quit or lose nerve. Professional kitchens are littered with cooks who’ve lost their nerve, surpassed by someone faster, better, more ruthless. The relative safety of working the same position for years – breakfast cook, grill cook, garde manger kitchen – is the best guarantee of job security in the rapidly changing dynamic of a busy kitchen.

The first thing a new hire has smashed to pieces are their ideals. A busy kitchen has no time to be sugary nice; your new station, your prep list, the cook that will be training you, are all waiting to see what you can do. Mistakes in the first few weeks are forgiven but patience wears thin rather quickly if you don’t get it. No one’s really interested in what you did in your last kitchen, how good you were, or how much you know. It’s what you do here and now that counts.

Our new short order cook was a recent graduate from the C.I.A. He had recently completed an internship with a Michelin starred restaurant in Australia. He was young, passionate, knowledgeable and full of himself. He wanted to work with Foie Gras,Truffles and Molecular Gastronomy. His plates whenever we had a “chefs table” were intricate, creative and indicative of his fine dining background. The short order station didn’t need his artistry. He stayed with us for nine months. Every day he came to work, made French onion soup, marinara sauce, cut potatoes for hand cut truffle fries and flipped hamburgers on a small grill. The prep is tedious and many nights he was still in the kitchen long after everyone else had left. The short order station is one of the busiest in our kitchen and you have to be able to cook and prep simultaneously just to keep up.  It’s grueling work and for our young cook the first true test of his passion for cooking.

He was talented, it was obvious and it showed in the quality of his work. Perfect knife cuts, commitment to quality, his willingness to do more. He had the spark and if he could stick it out in five to eight years he would be a great sous chef. We were surprised when he put his resignation in. “Are you moving to another kitchen” I asked. “No, I’m going back to school to study finance.” I was saddened by his reply because he had the makings of a great chef.  He’s long gone now; his last day was three weeks ago. Even though we all promised to stay in touch, I haven’t heard from him since. Someone else is working his station, his prep is gone, the combination to his locker changed. The kitchen has closed ranks and moved on, hungry diners order from the menu, servers refill water glasses and every night we put plates in the pass as the dance continues.

Fried Chicken with Mediterranean Spices

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Fried Chicken

So Plump, Tender, and Juicy

full of

flavor and crispy,

From Legs, Breast, Thighs, and Wings

a bird worthy of feeding a king

As the last piece comes to an End

don’t worry Chicken, we will meet Again!

Rashaan Patterson

I live in a modest two bedroom apartment in Atlanta. The kitchen is typical in size and furnishing; small with a preinstalled dishwasher, electric stove and refrigerator. I have a thing against electric stoves, it irks me when I can’t jiggle the handles of my frying pan or swirl sauce as it reduces. I’ve learnt to adapt to my constraints and have produced many a fine meal with a bare minimum of equipment. It helps that I live close to Atlanta’s best farmers market, which allows access to the widest and freshest array of produce, seafood and meat under one roof.

Recently, I found a restaurant supply store on Pleasantdale road that sells professional kitchen equipment at very reasonable prices. I’ve started buying all my small equipment from this store it’s a lot cheaper and does the job just as well as more expensive gadgets from Williams Sonoma and the Cooks Warehouse. Bit by bit, a balloon whisk recently purchased, a baking tray, a stainless steel mixing bowl, a 2 qt. sauteuse, a matching pair of plastic lexans; my plain, simple, rudimentary cooking space is attaining the comfortable patina of a well-used kitchen.

Yesterday, I bought a whole chicken and fresh thyme and rosemary from the farmers market.  The plan was to roast the chicken for dinner along with sautéed corn, broccoli and carrots. Instead of traditional Jamaican “rice and peas,” I decided to substitute rice for barley. Maybe changing one thing triggered the desire to change another and I decide to fry the chicken instead of roasting it. In the South, buttermilk fried chicken is the standard, but I opted for a more flavorful version using cumin, coriander and turmeric as a part of the spice rub. These spices which are main ingredients in Curry feature prominently in the cuisines of the Middle East and India. I thoroughly enjoyed this meal and want to share this recipe so you can enjoy it too.

Fried Chicken with Mediterranean Spices

1 whole chicken (cut the chicken into 10 pieces – 2 legs, 2 thighs, cut the breasts in two, 2 wings)

1 teaspoon coriander

1 teaspoon cumin

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 teaspoons turmeric

2 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon black pepper

6 cups all-purpose flour

2 eggs (beaten)

Canola oil for frying

Method

  1. In a medium bowl, mix all of the dry spices. Add chicken and toss until well coated. Let the mixture stand at room temp (if cooking within 4 hours) or refrigerated in a large bowl for one hour.
  2. In a large bowl, mix the flour with salt and pepper to season well. One-by-one, add the chicken pieces, making sure they are thoroughly coated with flour on all sides.
  3. Shake off excess flour and immerse each piece of chicken in the egg wash.
  4. Dredge with flour a second time making sure the pieces are thoroughly coated.
  5. Fill a large pot four inches deep with oil and heat to 325 degrees.
  6. Grab each piece of chicken and slap it back and forth between your hands a few times to knock off the excess flour before slipping it into the oil.
  7.  It is important not to overcrowd the pot. The temperature will drop as the pieces go into the oil, resulting in soggy greasy chicken that steam instead of crispy fried. If your pot is not big enough fry the chicken in two or three batches, the results will be worth it.
  8. Also do not over compensate by turning the heat to high, you want the heat a little over medium the entire time.  Too high and the crust burns while the inside remains undercooked. I like to cover my frying pot with the pieces inside and let them be.
  9. Check every 5-7 minutes for each side and turn them when necessary.
  10. Average cooking time 15- 20 minutes until golden brown and at least 160 degrees at the bone. The juices from the meat should run clear when pierced with a fork.

Tomato Basil Bruschetta

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There are hundreds of variations on this popular appetizer and rightly so because this recipe is extremely adaptable and easy to make. This is a simple version that uses Roma tomatoes, fresh basil, red onions, a little olive oil and vinegar. Sometimes simple works best and in this case anything else would be too much.

Tomato Basil Bruschetta

4 Roma tomatoes (diced)

2 tbsp. Red onion (fine dice)

2 tbsp. Fresh basil (finely minced)

4 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

3 tbsp. White balsamic vinegar

¼ cup shredded parmesan cheese

Salt & Black pepper to taste

1 French Baguette

Method

1)      Use a sharp knife to cut the Roma tomatoes in halves and then in quarters. Save the skin and remove the seeds and pulp. Roma tomatoes work best for this recipe because the skins are much thicker with less seeds and pulp.

2)      Dice the tomatoes. Put tomatoes, diced red onion, white balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil, in a bowl and mix. Add the chopped basil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3)      Cut 12 slices of the French baguette on a diagonal about ¼ inch thick. Brush each slice with olive oil and season liberally with salt and pepper.  Toast them on the top rack in the oven at 350F for 5 – 6 minutes or until lightly browned.

4)      Spoon the Tomato Basil mixture unto the baguette and garnish with parmesan cheese.

5)      To avoid the bread becoming soggy make bruschetta a few minutes before serving. Makes 12 Tomato Basil Bruschetta